A rainy afternoon in Coyoacán

By Rob Packer

The plan for today was to meet up with Alexandra and Érica, two friends visiting the D.F. from Medellín, and head to the pyramids at Teotihuacán. They’d managed to get an amazing deal with a taxi driver to take us to the pyramids for the day for next to nothing and had arranged to be picked up at 10:30. After he phoned me at 10:50 to say he was stuck in traffic and would be another 20 or 30 minutes—he was probably at home—we gave up and decided to spend the day in Mexico City: after all, climbing pyramids in the rain isn’t most people’s idea of fun.

In the end, we decided to head to Coyoacán and to the Frida Kahlo Museum, which is excellent, although I’d forgotten how zealous the attendants are at enforcing the rules they have in there. No touching is perfectly understandable and no photography is fair enough, but even though I understand that the no mobiles rule is to stop people having their experience spoilt by other people’s conversations, it seems a bit heavy-handed to make people text outside in the rain.

Once we’d left the museum, I took them back to the plaza for a mango and chile paleta—I hope it changed their life.

Graffiti in Coyoacán

A sculpture by Mardonio Magaña in the garden of the Frida Kahlo Museum. An amazing sculptor

Another sculpture by Margonio Magaña.

Pre-Hispanic sculpture on Frida's pyramid.

Sculpture and shells in the fountain.

Frida Kahlo's house and now museum, la Casa Azul.

Car in Coyoacán.

A very damp Mexican flag, one of countless flags around the country hung out for Independence Day on 15th September.

Coyoacán streets.

A balcony in what could be one of my favourite buildings: at the corner of Melchor Ocampo and Francisco Sosa.

More graffiti, this time in La Condesa.

¡Chao, San José!

By Rob Packer

To say I’m glad to have left San José and am happily back in Mexico, it sounds like I don’t like Costa Rica. That isn’t true at all: the country is beautiful and incredibly green, and I really want to go back to see the countless parts of the country I’ve not visited. What I wouldn’t recommend, though, is being ill and being stuck in San José, especially if you made the mistake of staying in an—actually decent—hotel, that just happened to have ended up in the red light district. Next time I’m back in Costa Rica, I aim to spend it at the beach.

The view of the mountains around San José.

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