Rainy Rio

By Rob Packer

British beachgoers look for holidays with “sun, sand and sea”; while Spanish speakers look for “sol, brisa y mar” (sun, breeze and sea). The reason for this should be clear enough for anyone who’s spent any part of the summer staring out over the yellow plains of Castile from Madrid desperately hoping for a breeze; or, on the other hand, to any unsuspecting visitor to Brighton expecting fun with a bucket and spade. I say this from experience: I was taken, unwarned, to Brighton when I was about five and have never forgiven the place for it.

I have no idea what the Portuguese rule of three for the beach is (if you do, please put it in the comments), but what do you do in a city famous for having sol, mar, breeze, sand and everything else, when it’s a rainy day in Rio? The tourist brochures might keep quiet about it, but Rio actually does have double the annual rainfall of somewhere like London. Thankfully this is quite often fast rain, rather than northern Europe’s leisurely drizzle, but cloudy days do come around with about the frequency of, oh, Brazilian public holidays: so much so, that they almost always coincide.

So what to do on a cloudy day in Rio? Some tell me that everyone goes to the mall (true); others that no one knows what to do, stick distraught heads under pillows and stay at home (no way to check); and the hardiest will still go to the beach (they do I’ve checked).

None of these options is really as good as going up into the mountains and seeing how beautiful they are under cloud.

This last weekend added another option: FLUPP, the Literary Festival of the UPPs—an offshoot of FLIP, the Paraty Literary Festival—that aimed to bring literature to Rio’s newly pacified comunidades. The views swept 270º from Corcovado to the airport in the north of the city, but the real action was inside the tents with writers and poets like Manuel Vilas (Spain), Patrícia Portela (Portugal), Kei Miller (Jamaica), Allan da Rosa and Ferreira Gullar (Brazil).

Modern Brazilian Sonnets: Paulo Henriques Britto’s Forms of Nothing

By Rob Packer

Formas do nada by Paulo Henriques Britto

A constant in all (?) European literatures, the sonnet has a long pedigree in Portuguese, ranging from love sonnets by Camões, the language’s equivalent to Shakespeare, Cervantes or Goethe, right down to twentieth-century Brazilian poets, such as Vinícius de Moraes or Mario Quintana. In his collection from March this year, Formas do nada (Forms of Nothing, no English translation), Paulo Henriques Britto, one of Brazil’s leading poets, returns to the form throughout, exploring in half the collection’s poems the sonnet’s Petrarchan, Shakespearean and unrhymed forms, as well as reaching into more unconventional combinations (5-4-3-2, 5-5-4 and the like).

It soon becomes clear how apt the title is: the Forms are specifically poetic in their most traditional and rhyming guise and it is clear that Nothing refers to the subject matter. The first poem is ‘Lorem ipsum’, named after the placeholder text, featured in PowerPoint or WordPress that’s really a nonsense version of text by Cicero. Britto, who is also a translator, includes a “self-translation”, where the speaker promises poetic fireworks: Read more of this post

Boats in Botafogo Bay

By Rob Packer

Yachts in Botafogo Bay at sunset.

Can Money Buy Style?

By Rob Packer

As part of the off-and-on blog series of  ”tourist knick-knacks that are funny until you look at the price tag” (see this silver gorilla on a surfboard in Mexico), here are some tropical birds in semi-precious stones that Brazilian kitschmeisters Amsterdam Sauer keep in their shop at the top of Sugarloaf Mountain.

While the workmanship is evidently impressive, the results show—as with so much in life—that less really is more. A pink bald eagle touching down on an outcrop of quartz (or whatever it may be) might be a bold visual statement, but as far as I’m concerned it  sits somewhere on the line between bathetic and downright hilarious. Well, actually mostly hilarious and I couldn’t help wondering if the strategy behind the shop’s location is that the beautiful view numbs your credit card hand and makes you start thinking about clearing out that space on the mantelpiece for a colourful new addition.

What do you think?

Sugarloaf

Here is a coast; here is a harbor;
here, after a meager diet of horizon, is some scenery:
impractically shaped and—who knows?—self-pitying mountains,
sad and harsh beneath their frivolous greenery,

from ‘Arrival at Santos’, Elizabeth Bishop

Photos from two trips to Sugarloaf Mountain this year. The best thing about a visit up the Pão de Açúcar—apart from the view obviously—is the little piece of forest that hovers at the top of the mountain nearly 400m above Guanabara Bay: it feels like spending an afternoon on Laputa from Gulliver’s Travels. Only without anyone trying to extract sunlight from cucumbers.

Read more of this post

Urca Window

By Rob Packer

A window in Urca, the bairro of the city just under Sugar Loaf Mountain.

Rui Barbosa’s Garden

By Rob Packer

Photos taken on a rainy afternoon in the Rui Barbosa House-Museum in Botafogo, Rio de Janeiro.

A Life-Time First

By Rob Packer

The first time I came to Brazil was only two years ago, but in all that time I’ve never been to one of the country’s true passions: futebol. Until tonight, that is.

We went to Fluminense, one of the Rio teams, against Ponte Preta from Campinas. The experience was—in a word—mind-blowing.

Here are some photos:

Under the Fluminense flag.

Dressed for the match.

The crowd begins its celebrations as Fluminense goes from 1-0 behind to win 2-1

Vinicius de Moraes and Ethics in Poetry

By Rob Packer

Vinicius de Moraes' Poetry Anthology (not the collection I read)

Vinicius de Moraes (1913-1980) is one of the leading figures of 20th-century Brazilian culture and was the joint founder, with Tom Jobim, of the bossa nova movement of the late 1950’s. Vinicius was a frequent lyricist of the movement and is above all known for writing the incredibly famous ‘Chega de saudade’ and ‘Garota de Ipanema’ (‘The Girl from Ipanema’). Less well known (outside of Brazil, at least) is that Vinicius was also a leading poet of the past century.

I recently finished his New Poetry Anthology, collection of over 200 of Vinicius’ poems, which cover a wide range of poetic forms from his free-verse spontaneity to Petrarchan love sonnets and left me with extremely ambivalent feelings (see later on). Personally, I found him strongest as a sonneteer, where the conciseness of the form concentrates his sensual impulsiveness of his longer poems, which can often feel overblown or disappear into a repetition more suited to song.

His ‘Sonnet of Separation’ (‘Soneto de separação’) was written on board ship at the writer left Brazil to study in England and is full of disorienting and sudden changes than come over like an unexpected wave crashing against the side of the ship: ‘And from mouths united came the spray / And from hands outstretched came the fear.’[1] Meanwhile, ‘Sonnet of fidelity’ (‘Soneto de fidelidade’) starts with a declaration of fidelity:

To all, for my love I will be true
Before, with such zeal, forever, and so
That even facing the greatest temptation
More will enchant me my imagination.

De tudo, ao meu amor serei atento
Antes, e com tal zelo, e sempre, e tanto
Que mesmo em face do maior encanto
Dele se encante mais meu pensamento.

New Poetry Anthology by Vinicius de Moraes - The copy I read

It continues in love-drunk addiction where he wants ‘to live it in every vain moment[2]and laugh my laughter and spill out my tears[3]. At the volta, however, the tone changes: he realizes that the cliché that love is like a flame is true and wishes ‘that it might be infinite while it lasts[4]. It’s as if he both redefines time, as a present where tomorrow never comes, and fidelity, in that he’s being faithful to the intoxication of love, rather than anyone in particular. Indeed, the word ‘you’ is notable by its absence—this seems to fit with the author’s eight marriages.

Over the course of reading the book, however, Vinicius de Moraes’ impulsiveness did begin to grate, but my opinion changed once and for all around page 100 with two poems in particular that I found completely lacking in compassion and absolutely objectionable.

In ‘Crepúsculo em New York’, the poet ecstasies over sunset in New York before three lines, which are unforgettable in the worst sense of the word: ‘Despite the East Side, and the yellow stain / Of China Town, and the dark stain of Harlem / New York is really pretty!’[5] Portuguese isn’t my native language, so I thought I’d misunderstood. But after reading, going to the dictionary and re-reading these lines time and time again, I can´t find them anything but horribly racist in their combination of despite and stain.

More shocking is the ‘Balada dos mortos dos campos de concentração’ (‘Ballad for the dead of the concentration camps’), whose title feels barely appropriate to say the least. But it was the sheer unsuitability of the images, which were quite simply beyond my comprehension:

Decayed corpses
Piled on the floor
Squalid and entwined
In stupefied kisses
Like amazed ascetics
In presence of a vision

Cadáveres necrosados
Amontoados no chão
Esquálidos enlaçados
Em beijos estupefatos
Como ascetas siderados
Em presença da visão.

And a few lines later:

In your dreadful faces
There are jocund smiles.

Em vossas faces hediondas
Há sorrisos de giocondas.

Personally, neither kisses nor visions nor smiles, and certainly not jocundity, can describe the Holocaust: this juxtaposition seems to trivialize the fact that 6 million people were brutally murdered. It’s difficult to express my shock and revulsion.

It is sometimes difficult to draw the line between literary worth and ethics, but these poems (there is a third on the atomic bomb I’m leaving out for reasons of space) are clearly irredeemable.

But I was then confronted with an ethical question: do, should or can you write off the entire work of a writer for three tasteless poems? What about the poems I read—and liked—before coming to these poems? And worse, what about the poems I liked subsequently? Or should I even have continued reading or simply thrown the book across the room? These are difficult questions that every reader has to resolve separately for every author, and I make no claims to be any kind of judge.

In the end and with a bad taste in my mouth, I decided to carry on, but the damage was done. With a handful of exceptions (the homesick ‘Poem of Auteuil’ is one), the impetuosity became tedious, the frequent self-references to himself as “the poet” narcissistic, and the poet himself increasingly repellent.

In short, the magic that poetry needs to work well had gone.


[1] E das bocas unidas fez-se a espuma / E das mãos espalmadas fez-se o espanto.

[2] Quero vivê-lo em cada vão momento

[3] E rir meu riso e derramar meu pranto

[4] Mas que seja infinito enquanto dure.

[5] Apesar do East Side, e da mancha amarela / De China Town, e da mancha escura de Harlem / New York é muito bela!

Posthumous Memoirs of Brás Cubas by Machado de Assis

By Rob Packer

"Posthumous Memoirs of Brás Cubas" by Machado de Assis

While reading Posthumous Memoirs of Brás Cubas (Memórias Póstumas de Brás Cubas) by Machado de Assis (1839-1908), I constantly had to remind myself that it was written in 1881. The book—also Epitaph of a Small Winner in English—feels far more modern, and modernist, than its age would suggest. Even the basics suggest this: the narrator, Brás Cubas (a writing dead man rather than a dead writer), is telling his life story from his coffin and the novel is dedicated to “the first worm to gnaw the cold flesh of my corpse”.

But the story isn’t morbid; the narrative is playful in a style of ironic distance, and in parts feels very much surrealist. Within the first ten pages, Brás Cubas introduces us to his former mistress, who only has a few grey hairs because “she’s one of those stubborn types”. And while he’s lying on his deathbed speaking to her, a talking hippopotamus bursts into the room and takes him through a snow-covered landscape to the “origin of the centuries” to meet Pandora and have his life (and the whole of human history) flash before his eyes. It is touches like these that help the book feel so modern and make it an exhilarating read.

Towards the end of the book after a number of unsuccessful careers, Brás Cubas falls under the spell of Quincas Borba, a beggar become cod philosopher. Borba has created a woolly philosophical concept called Humanitas, a parody of the philosophical ideas of the day. Magpie-like, it “excluded nothing” and its key formula is the (frankly nonsensical) “Humanitas wants to replace Humanitas for the sake of Humanitas”.

Machado de Assis is, without a doubt, the most influential writer in Brazilian literature and his figure of the ironic narrator still lives on today—Moacyr Scliar is a great writer and an obvious example. But I feel he should also be thought of as much as a great writer of world literature: Brás Cubas feels mould breaking both linguistically and thematically, while it is also grounded in the 19th-century realist movement and the Western literary tradition as a whole and jumps effortlessly between references to Laurence Sterne, Molière, Voltaire and Dante. Doing all this is some feat and, quite simply, Machado de Assis deserves to be read.

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